This recipe for ‘mantonongs’ had us puzzled for a little while… until we realised that the title was a corruption of côtelettes à la Maintenon!
Mantonongs [Côtelettes à la Maintenon]
Take a loin of mutton, cut it in cutlets & stuff it, in holes up and down, with forced meat made of crumbs of bread and anchovies, lemon peel, thyme, parsley and onion and raw egg. Spread them all over with raw eggs & strew [scatter] them with the same […] forced meat. Butter some clean papers and lay your bones in [them]. Turn the edges up close to keep in the liquor and broil them on a griddle. Serve them up in a clean dry dish without any sauce.
This dish was allegedly a favourite of the Marquise de Maintenon, wife of King Louis XIV of France.
Despite its origins in the French Court, this dish, and particularly the presentation of the cutlets ‘en papillotte’, was rather too common for some. In his fashionable cookbook The French Cook (1813), society chef Louis Eustache Ude turned his nose up at the dish, writing: “This entree I cannot much approve of on account of the greased paper which is to appear at the table, but some persons like them”.